Serge speaks no English, and I speak even less Moldovan, but Serge, via Natalie, explains that if you drink enough, none of this will be an issue. Maybe it’s worth a try. Hmmm.
As it turned out, he was right. As Serge poured mulberry, pine needle, strawberry, “medicine,” “78%” and “at this point I forgot to take notes” vodka into shot glasses, we drunkenly chattered away in Esperanto, then burst into lively, hustling folk songs. Finally, giggling, I stumbled back to my rustic wooden room. I woke to the sounds of roosters crowing, donkeys coughing and the voices of Serge’s relatives. On the sunny balcony, Emilia served me warm homemade bread with rosehip jam and fresh cottage cheese.
And as I was there, with a slight hangover and a strong coffee, gazing up at the silvery mist rising off the Dniester, Serge came over, shook my hand, and gave me a free bottle of raspberry vodka, which apparently was my favorite (my memory is hazy). And while he did that, I thought: What a nice person, what a nice family, what a nice country. Because it’s true. Everyone I’ve met on this trip has been so lovely, and that’s really special.
In a world where tourists are increasingly shunned, scolded, taxed, abused and industrially processed in sterile resorts, Moldova is a place that is happy to welcome you because it has so few tourists, and because it genuinely wants to see you. In other words, visiting Moldova is like coming home to a warm, joyful family you forgot you had. Wonderful.
How to do it
Regent (www.regent-holidays.co.uk; 0117 453 3001) runs an eight-day Moldovan vineyards and villages trip that explores Chisinau’s rich cultural heritage, the mystical charm of Transnistria and the rustic charm of Moldovan villages, with wine tastings and ancient monasteries along the way. Prices start from £2,825 per person (shared) and include flights, three nights in a four-star hotel in Chisinau (one at the start of the trip and two at the end), four nights’ accommodation in a range of family-run guesthouses and boutique hotels, meals and guided tours.
The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office (FCDO) has not issued a warning for Moldova, but advises against travel to Transnistria. Ignoring FCDO advice may invalidate your travel insurance.
