Medieval fashion was never static. It was a vibrant, evolving tapestry that reflected the cultural shifts, political changes, and social hierarchy of the time. Imagine a time when the length of a tunic or the embellishment of a cloak was an indication of one’s status, and when one’s choice of fabric said much about their wealth and influence.
This article takes you on a journey through the centuries, tracing the dynamic trends of the era through the vivid images preserved in medieval manuscripts. From the opulent costumes of Carolingian emperors to the practical yet elegant attire of Anglo-Saxon aristocrats, medieval fashion offers a glimpse into a world where clothing was not just a necessity, but a statement. Explore the styles that defined an era and uncover the stories that are woven into the fabric of medieval life itself.
Carolingian elegance – imitating Roman grandeur
In this portrait of the Carolingian Emperor Charles the Bald and his wife, made between 866 and 875, Charles wears a sleeved tunic, a loose cloak, and long leg coverings. Charles’s attire is typical of Carolingian fashion, adorned with gold and jewels, emphasizing his status. Carolingian rulers saw themselves as successors to the Roman Empire and sought to emulate Roman grandeur in their attire. Charles’ wife wears a long veil, two tunics, and jewelry, including earrings and bracelets, further demonstrating the influence of Roman fashion on Carolingian dress. This opulence was not just a show, but an expression of power and continuity with a respected Roman past.
Anglo-Saxon clothing – practical and modest
The painting from 966 shows King Edgar of England (959-975) flanked by the Virgin Mary and Saint Peter. Edgar wears a knee-length tunic and cloak with leather stockings that extend from his ankles to his knees. The female figures wear long, loose woolen gowns, cloaks, and head coverings. Nearly all Anglo-Saxon women, except for young children and slaves, wore head coverings, reflecting societal norms of modesty and decorum. These garments were designed for practicality, appropriate for the English climate and the wearer’s everyday activities.
Byzantine luxury – pearls and purple
Originally a portrait of the Byzantine Emperor Michael VII (1071-1078) but later altered to depict his successor Nikephoros III (1078-1081), the painting is a good example of Byzantine opulence. Nikephoros wears a blue tunic over a mauve tunic, decorated with pearls, which were highly prized among the Byzantine elite. One predecessor’s costume was so decorated with 30,000 pearls that it was impossible to sit down while wearing it. Officials wear a red and gold chlamys, a garment. Byzantine fashion was heavily influenced by Asian imports, which in turn influenced Western Mediterranean styles. This cross-cultural exchange enriched Byzantine costume, which became one of the most luxurious in the medieval world.
Norman nobility – The Bayeux Tapestry
The Bayeux Tapestry, an 11th-century artefact, depicts William, Duke of Normandy, and his half-brothers Odo and Robert. The tapestry provides a valuable resource for understanding Norman fashion, as it shows William wearing elaborate stockings and a gold-embroidered cloak. The detailed depictions of clothing provide subtle hints about the wearer’s status and character, reflecting the importance of clothing in medieval society. Clothing was not merely functional, but an expression of power, identity and artistry.
Fashion in the early 12th century – The stylish knight
Manuscripts from the early 12th century depicting a knight standing on his squire while fighting a dragon provide insight into fashion trends of the time. Fulk, Count of Anjou, wore high-toed shoes to hide his bunions, which became popular. This trend was similar to the sneakers endorsed by modern-day athletes, demonstrating the influence of the elite on popular fashion.
Seasonal Wardrobe – Dress for the Weather
A late 13th-century health book provides advice on appropriate clothing for each season. In spring, cotton or fine wool robes are recommended to avoid extreme temperatures. In summer, cooler clothing such as linen or silk is needed. Autumn clothing should be a little warmer than spring, while winter calls for thick, fluffy wools or furs for warmth. These seasonal guidelines reflect a pragmatic approach to medieval clothing that balanced comfort with functionality.
Wealthy Italians – High Fashion in the 13th Century
The rise of city-states in late medieval Italy brought great wealth and influenced fashion. A late 13th-century painting shows three well-dressed Genoese men, adorned with gold trim, furs, and oversized buttons. But the painting criticizes their attire, symbolizing the sin of arrogance and highlighting the moral and social implications of fashion.
14th Century Women – Evolving Style
This early 14th-century painting shows two women in changing fashions: only married women are veiled, and their tunics now have short sleeves that reach the elbows, reflecting changing social norms and the increasing influence of fashion on women’s appearance.
Royal attire – King’s attire
A painting depicting the preparations for the coronation of King Charles V of France in 1364 shows the king wearing a red silk tunic with a drawstring at the front. The chamberlains wear stockings decorated with fleur-de-lis. Most of the men in the scene wear long, colorful tunics. The elaborate costumes emphasize the importance of a king’s appearance in reinforcing his authority and prestige.
Italian Renaissance Fashion – The Influence of St. Ursula
A depiction of Saint Ursula and her fellow virgins from the 1380s illustrates the change in fashion in early Renaissance Italy. The women wear tight-fitting tunics that partially expose their necks and shoulders. This change to more revealing clothing marks a departure from more conservative medieval styles and reflects broader cultural changes.
Sumptuary Law – Dress Restrictions
A man and a woman are reprimanded by their abbot for their immodest appearance. In late medieval England and Italy, sumptuary laws regulated clothing, especially for non-nobility. These laws were intended to maintain social order, but were often ineffective and widely ignored. This reflects the continuing tension between social norms and personal expression.
15th Century Elegance – Aristocratic Fashion
Northern European paintings from the 1470s show aristocratic men and women dressed in the latest fashions: riders with long hair, short hats and gowns, women with spired headdresses, one woman with the long legs of her gown wrapped around her wrists to make walking easier. These details highlight the practical and aesthetic considerations of late medieval fashion.
Black is back – a medieval color trend
Late Medieval paintings show the growing popularity of black clothing. Previously unfashionable and associated with poverty, black became the fashionable colour. Other colours had symbolic meanings: green for love, grey for sadness, yellow for hostility, and blue, associated with the Virgin Mary and representing loyalty. The Duke of Berry’s “Clothes of the Three Great Men” shows the great diversity of medieval fashion.
Royal Accessories – Kings’ Jewelry
King Charles VIII of France (1483-1498) tried to restrict the use of cloth of gold and silver to only the wealthiest nobles. Like his Carolingian forebears, Charles VIII adorned himself with precious stones, including diamonds, rubies, and gold medallions. These lavish accessories emphasized the wealth and status of the king and underscored the importance of appearance in medieval politics.
Late Medieval Fashion: Combining Old and New
This painting, depicting a “Roman de Rose” scene from the 1490s, blends old medieval styles with new trends — the woman wears a wide-sleeved gown and the man wears elaborate stockings — and this blend of styles shows an awareness of the evolution of fashion and highlights the dynamic nature of clothing in the late Middle Ages.
Tracing medieval fashion doesn’t just reveal changing styles, it reveals the complex relationship between clothing, culture, and society. Each period, from the Carolingian period to the late 15th century, shows how fashion influenced and reflected broader historical trends, from political change to economic development. Whether it was the opulent costumes of Byzantine emperors or the practical yet symbolic clothing of Anglo-Saxon women, clothing served as a powerful tool to express identity, status, and values. Looking back at these trends, we see the lasting influence medieval fashion had on modern clothing. The emphasis on detail, the use of luxurious materials, and the importance of fashion as a status symbol continue to resonate today. Studying the past can help us gain a deeper understanding of the way fashion shapes and is shaped by the world around us. Medieval fashion is more than just clothing; it is a dynamic and expressive art form that offers valuable insight into the lives and times of our predecessors.
Further reading:
Medieval Clothing and Fashion by Margaret Scott is a great resource for learning about changes in fashion during the Middle Ages. You can also learn more about medieval fashion from the following articles:
Medieval shoes
Medieval nuns knew fashion, historian finds
Medieval undergarments? Austrian discovery reveals what was actually worn under tunics
Viking fashion was provocative, historian finds
Medieval Clothing Recreation: Norwegian Clothing Patterns
Anglo-Saxon costume: a study of the fashions of secular civilian clothing and jewellery
Making of 14th and 15th century headdresses
Maciejowski Bible Underwear
Bending: Guigemard and the eroticism of tight dresses in Marie de France
Glittering Fashion: Costume in Medieval French and Dutch Art
