Next summer in Paris, athletes will push the limits at the Olympics, but designers are already using metallic colors to compete for gold, silver and bronze. The polo shirt evokes a different kind of sportiness in the same way that the tank top relies on the spring season.
Also a staple this season is floral prints. Innovative? Well, designers were tending roses rather than planting gardens. This prickly beauty is brimming with symbolism, with connections to the Tudors (England has a new King), Madonna, Gertrude Stein, and Shakespeare, who spoke of roses in Romeo and Juliet. Baz Luhrmann’s ever-popular version of this heartbreaking love story seems to be a visual reference to every fluttering feather touch as the world marches forward on a wing and a prayer, with a dose of ’90s nostalgia.
The joy of sheer: sheer white dress
Looks from Prada, Stella McCartney and Gabriela Hearst
White dresses of varying degrees of transparency are a key fashion trend for Spring 2024, embodying designers’ pursuit of lightness. At Prada, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aimed for “total freedom of the body,” models appeared in sheer dresses layered like millefeuilles of airy fabrics, among curtains of slime. Though forms are sometimes revealed through the sheer fabrics and draping, the effect is a classical interpretation of the body rather than a sexy one; more like the Three Graces from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera than Victoria’s Secret.
Summer Elegy: Serious Black
Looks from Maison Margiela, Undercover, and Saint Laurent
Without wings, humans are earthbound. The predominance of black on the runway seemed both an acknowledgement of the human condition and a sign that imagination can take flight even in times of sadness. “He feels trapped in this world, but he wants to free himself,” a translator said backstage at Jun Takahashi’s Undercover show, which featured tulle-wrapped suits and shiny dresses that served as temporary homes for butterflies. The veiled look has also appeared at Issey Miyake and Rick Owens.
Air conditioner: openwork material
Looks from Bottega Veneta, Valentino and Proenza Schouler
Beyond the functionality of cargo pockets, designers have created a host of styles that make use of openwork fabrics to create a cool look, from pom-pom-embellished mesh at Bottega Veneta to fine net at Proenza Schouler, from artful cut-outs at Valentino to seashell lattice at Versace.
Edward Scissorhands: Slash and Shred
Looks from Fendi, Lure and Peter Do
Not all holes in clothing have to do with breathability: Spring saw designers slashing pieces like Lucio Fontana’s “Space Concept” artwork (see Peter Do and Courage) or ripping them apart for a timely “unleashed” vibe.
Undercover: Apron
Christian Dior, Hermes and Courrèges looks
The practicality and protection of workwear has found its way into ready-to-wear, too: while cargo pockets continue to mushroom, what feels newest are aprons of all kinds: butcher’s, bib, waiter’s, hostess, etc., first seen at Christian Dior, Hermès, The Row, etc. In addition to these popovers, functional or decorative, some designers have taken the garment’s simple square neckline and worked it into effortless summer wear.
Show of Hands: Sculptural Volumes
Y/Project, Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton look
As the world becomes increasingly digital, the materiality of clothing becomes more important. One way to interpret the sculptural tactility of the spring collection, which includes Glenn Martin’s wire works and Junya Watanabe’s collages, is to read them as a response, or even a counterattack, to the glossy perfection of AI. To demonstrate that “designers matter,” the creative director and his team got their hands into fabric, squashing, twisting and shaping it to create stunning volumes reminiscent of John Chamberlain’s sculptures.
A little stretch: elongated silhouette
Looks by Alaïa, Duran Lantink and Loewe
Whereas hem lengths once grabbed fashion headlines, in a pantless era, waistlines are as fluctuating as the stock market. For the most part, waists are rising; at Loewe and Alexander McQueen, waistbands for both men and women have risen to empire height. The Giacometti-esque trend for slimming waists was also seen at Alaïa in the form of must-have high-rise trousers. But it’s not the only way to elongate the torso; dropped waists and peplums were in abundance, as was a gaping body stocking at Durand Lantink that exposed midriffs.
Olympic medals: metallic
Looks from Rabanne, Ralph Lauren and Alexander McQueen
Paris will soon be hosting the 2024 Olympics, where athletes from all over the world will compete. Those who push themselves past their limits will receive medals that are as coveted as Oscar statuettes. As if in anticipation of the Olympics, designers have delved into the metallic trend, incorporating not only gold and silver, but also bronze as fashion trends for Spring 2024.
Collar pops out: Polo shirt
Andreas Kronthaler looks for Vivienne Westwood, Miu Miu and Gucci
This season’s tank top is the preppy icon that is the polo shirt, resurrected by Miu Miu for summer camp vibes, and remixed by subversive brands like Y/Project and Vaquera for a stand-up collar look that’s moved beyond the dorm room.
In the name of the rose
Looks by Balmain, Simone Rocha and Rolf Ekroth
The rose is the king of flowers. Beautiful and majestic (though yes, its thorns are prickly), the flower is as fragrant as it is symbolic. Sarah Burton’s use of the flower at McQueen was a reference to the Tudor rose, a symbol of royalty. At Balmain, it paid homage to Pierre Balmain’s friend Gertrude Stein, who was present and wrote about his couturier debut in Vogue in 1945 and who was known for saying, “A rose is a rose is a rose.” The flower appeared as prints (see Erdem chintz) and was embellished and appliquéd in 3D fashion on all sorts of other garments, but Simone Rocha and Rolf Ekroth rejected the abstraction and used cut flowers instead.
Wings of Desire: A Touch of Feathers
Looks from JW Anderson, Maines and Kochet
The ’90s nostalgia continued unabated for Spring 2024, appearing on clothes and mood boards. Angel wings and medieval armour from Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet seem to be season-to-season references, echoing the “send me an angel / right now” message expressed in 1983’s Real Life.
